Crochet dog sweater pattern for large dogs with long legs. Worked from the collar down, with chest and back flaps and snap or button closure.

Long, lanky legs make dog sweaters hard to get on and off. This crochet dog sweater pattern fixes that with two flaps, one under the chest and one on the back, that close with snaps or buttons. Nothing has to go over the legs. It’s worked from the collar down in the round, then you add the flaps.
This version is the smallest size of the Large sweater, with the numbers for XL and XXL in the size table below.

What you’ll need

Yarn: worsted-weight yarn, such as Bravo in a super-large ball
Hook: 5 mm (H)
Closures: 6 sew-on snaps (best for very active dogs), or buttons
Heavy-duty thread and a needle for sewing on the snaps
Yarn needle, scissors and stitch markers

Have your dog try the sweater on as you go, since fit varies from dog to dog.

Sizes at a glance
Large XL XXL
Collar stitches 63 73 83
Stitches after round 11 64 74 84
Stitches after round 12 66 76 86
Stitches after round 30 100 110 120
Chest flap, row 1 18 20 22
Chest flap rows (total) 23 25 27
Back flap chain (each side) 16 18 20

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch = chain,

sc = single crochet,

hdc = half double crochet,

dc = double crochet,

sl st = slip stitch,

FPhdc = front post half double crochet,

BPhdc = back post half double crochet,

st = stitch

Suzette stitch: Sc and dc in the same stitch, skip the next stitch. Repeat. Each pair uses 2 stitches, and the skipped stitch is where the next row’s pair goes.

The collar (rounds 1-10)

Start with 63 stitches (Large) joined in the round. This is the part that slips over your dog’s head. Work 10 rounds of alternating FPhdc and BPhdc to make a ribbed collar.

Work fewer or more rounds if you like, and fold the collar down for a polished look. If you need help with post stitches,
The body

Round 11: Ch 1. Don’t turn. Sc and dc in the first stitch (where you joined). Skip the next stitch, sc and dc in the next. Repeat around, always working the pair into the front post hdc from round 10 and skipping the back posts. Work your last sc and dc in the last stitch of the round. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (64 stitches for Large)

Round 12 (first increase round): Ch 1 and turn. Skip the first stitch (a dc), and sc and dc in the next. Repeat skip 1, sc and dc until you have 8 pairs (16 stitches).

Increase block:

Sc in the next stitch (the one you’d normally skip).
Hdc and sc in the next stitch.
Sc in the next stitch (the dc from the row below).
Sc and dc in the next stitch.

You now have 22 stitches. Keep working skip 1, sc and dc around to the end. Join. (66 stitches)

Round 13:

Ch 1 and turn. Skip the first stitch and work 8 pairs (16 stitches). Work the increase block, then continue skip 1, sc and dc to the end. Because you turned, this block lands on the opposite side from round 12. Join.

Round 14:

Ch 1 and turn. Skip the first stitch and work 17 pairs. Work the increase block, then continue to the end. Join.

Round 15:

Ch 1 and turn. Work skip 1, sc and dc until 4 stitches remain. Work the increase block (sc, hdc and sc in one stitch, sc), then sc and dc in the very last stitch. Join.

Rounds 16-29:

Repeat the same round, moving the increase block to a different spot each round so the increases never stack. This is what grows the sweater into a cone shape that fits over the shoulders and chest. Each round adds 2 stitches. After round 29, the piece should have a clear cone shape.

Round 30 (no increases):

Ch 1 and turn. Work sc and dc, skip 1 all the way around. Join. You should have 100 stitches (Large), 110 (XL) or 120 (XXL). Check your count before you go on, because the flaps depend on it. For XL and XXL, add a few extra rows here for a taller sweater.

Place a stitch marker in the last stitch (the dc). This marks the center of the chest. Fasten off and leave the tail.

The chest flap

This panel goes between your dog’s front legs.

With the right side facing you, count 9 stitches to the right of the marked chest seam (Large). Attach your yarn in that stitch, which should be a sc from the row below.
Row 1: Ch 1. Sc and dc in the same stitch. Skip 1, sc and dc in the next. Continue across the seam until you have 9 pairs (18 stitches). That’s 20 stitches for XL and 22 for XXL.
Rows 2-23: Ch 1 and turn. Skip the first stitch and work sc and dc in the next. Continue in Suzette stitch, ending with sc and dc in the last stitch. Work 23 rows in total for Large (25 for XL, 27 for XXL).
The back flap

This flap goes over your dog’s back and overlaps the chest flap.

From the edge of the chest flap, count 13 stitches over (Large) and mark the 14th. Mark it before you chain so it’s easy to find.
Row 1:

Ch 16 (Large). Work sc and dc in the marked stitch. Skip 1, sc and dc in the next 27 more times. Ch 16 on the other side so it mirrors the first chain. These chains become the straps that wrap around.
Row 2:

Turn so the inside of the sweater faces you. Sc and dc in the 2nd chain from the hook (working into the back bar). Continue Suzette stitch across the chain: skip 1, sc and dc in the next. Work across the flap stitches the same way, and work your last two stitches of the flap in the last stitch. Then work across the second chain, skipping the first chain, and end right at the end of the chain.
Row 3:

Ch 1 and turn. Skip the first stitch and work Suzette stitch all the way across.

The gaps between the back flap and the chest flap on each side become the leg holes.

If you’re using buttons

Row 4 (buttonhole row):

Ch 1 and turn. Skip the first stitch and sc and dc in the next. Skip 3 stitches, sc and dc in the next. That’s your first buttonhole. Continue skip 1, sc and dc 39 times (Large). Then skip 3 stitches and sc and dc in the last stitch for the second buttonhole.

Row 5:

Skip the first 2 stitches. In the buttonhole, work sc and dc twice (4 stitches in the hole). Skip the next stitch (a dc), and sc and dc in the next sc. Continue across. At the second buttonhole, work sc and dc twice, skip the dc and finish with sc and dc in the last stitch.

Rows 6-15:

Work plain Suzette rows, as in row 3.

Choose larger buttons, since buttonholes stretch on an active dog.

If you’re using snaps

Skip the buttonhole rows. Work plain Suzette rows (as in row 3) from row 3 through row 15.

Shaping the back flap (rows 16-43)

This tapers the flap toward the tail.

Row 16: Ch 1 and turn. Skip the first stitch and sc and dc in the next. Work Suzette stitch across, but in the last stitch work only 1 sc (no dc). That decreases by 1.
Rows 17-43 (Large): Ch 1 and turn. Skip the first 2 stitches and work sc and dc in the next sc. Continue Suzette stitch across, and in the last stitch work 1 sc only. Repeat every row. You’re decreasing on both sides, so the flap tapers.

For Large, work until row 43, when you have 35 stitches left.

The edging

Ch 1. Sc evenly all the way around everything, both flaps and the whole outline. Choose a plan for where each sc goes (into a stitch, then into a row end) and stick with it, so the edge stays neat. At each corner at the top of the flaps, work 3 sc in the corner so it doesn’t pull in.

Cut the yarn and finish with an invisible join (Ashley’s tutorial: [add link]). Weave in all the ends.

Closures

Sew on 6 snaps with strong, heavy-duty thread: 2 at the edge, then 2 more in each of two other spots, placed as in her photos. To sew a snap, pass the needle through the yarn and around the snap hole several times. Move on to the matching snap and repeat. Try the sweater on your dog before you place the snaps on the second side. The chest area puffs out, so the sides may look slightly offset when it’s laid flat. That’s normal.

Tips
Count at rounds 11, 12 and 30. The stitch counts in the table keep you on track.
Stagger the increase block so the sweater grows into a cone.
Try it on before sewing on the snaps.
For very active dogs, use snaps or large buttons.

FAQ

What size is this crochet dog sweater pattern?
This is the smallest Large, with the numbers for XL and XXL in the table. It’s designed for dogs with long legs.

Why does it have flaps?
So you can put it on without pulling it over the legs.

Buttons or snaps?
Either one works. Snaps hold up better on active dogs.

What yarn should I use?
Worsted weight with a 5 mm hook.

Video Tutorial

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